Adding the molding to the front edge of the hood is pretty easy and straight forward; it snaps onto the front edge of the hood and then screws on from underneath. The screw holes are already there in the hood, even on a reproduction hood.
However, before I added the molding to the front edge of the hood, I added the F O R D lettering.
this article from Mustangs Monthly to get dimensions for the lettering. Starting with the hood...
|I then did the same thing for the driver's side of the hood.|
|...and the final product.|
I highly recommend buying an original molding and refurbishing it rather than go with a reproduction wide molding. However, if you must use a reproduction molding, then use a reproduction molding for each side. I bought an original wide molding set to refurbish, but one of the sides had a mounting tab missing. So I bought a repro molding for that side, but it did not match the other side in dimensions. So I opted to make the original molding work as best I could, and as it turned out it worked just fine.
To repaint the moldings, paint them with Krylon #1403, Dull Aluminum. This will be a near-exact match to the original argent color.
I don't have any pictures of when I did this work. However the installation is easy; there are tabs on the front of the molding that screw onto the headlight buckets or stone deflector. Then the thin molding is mounted, by setting the mounting studs in place and adjusting them to line up with the holes in the headlight bucket and stone deflector. Then they are nutted down.
Installation of Grille
I wrote these instructions for CJ Pony parts to install the grille. I wanted a more modern/custom look and ended up painting my grille with the Mastercoat Silver Rust Sealer, which is aluminum colored, and then painted it with an aluminum metallic spray paint to get an aluminum colored grille. I used the spray paint because it was more UV resistant than the Mastercoat silver primer. And it looked pretty cool:
Installation of Fender Ornament and Lettering
For the fender ornaments, I just did the plain pony without any engine designation. I could have got the custom Scott Drake 5.0 pony, but they were pricey and I still wanted to maintain a somewhat original or 'stock' appearance. I went with Scott Drake pin-on emblems, but only because my fenders were original and already had the original holes in them. However, after doing this I realized the pin-on was a mistake as the factory holes weren't always perfectly straight (or perhaps the pins aren't in the right locations). Needless to say, some of the letters are slightly crooked, but only if you're looking hard.
I also did away with the barrel nuts, as you have to push the emblems in really hard and this will create low spots in the fender. Instead what I did was took a round mini diamond file and filed out the holes (they will fill in from filler, primer, paint, clear coat) until the emblem pins fit in snugly. Then I took some Mastercoat Silver and painted a glob near the base of each pin, and pushed them into place, securing them to the panel with tape. The Mastercoat silver will dry rock hard and once it's dried, it's stuck. So it essentially glues the emblems to the panel, only the benefit here is you won't get rust streaks running down.
Unfortunately, my Scott Drake pony emblem doesn't fit the exact contour of the fender.
Installation of Trunk Molding
I wrote these instructions for installation of trunk molding for CJ Pony Parts. All of the molding, including this, that I've put on this car so far has been Corvex and I've been pretty happy with it. The fit was good and overall quality was pretty good.
Installation of Trunk Lid Letters
The trunk lid letters were Scott Drake stick on letters. As I mentioned earlier, I did not like these as much as the KSR stick on letters. I also used the measurements described in the previously linked Mustangs Monthly article above. The one dimension they do not give is for how high the letters are from the bottom edge of the trunk lid, which is 1 5/16".
|(The trunk lid is not shut, just sitting)|