First, order a metal template for the new holes to drill; I got mine from a guy who sells them on Ebay...it's a real nice template. Alternatively you can get one from the guy at Daze suspension but I don't think it's as nice though it still gets the job done. You'll also need a 17/32" drill bit. It's an odd size but I've seen them at Sears, True Value, and of course, Ebay. Just make sure you get one with a reduced shank to 3/8". Mine was a 1/2" shank so I had to borrow a 1/2" chuck drill. It stopped the project until I secured one and was annoying to say the least. Do you know how many people DON'T have 1/2" drills? Third, go to your favorite auto parts store and get a loaner spring compressor, but get the 'OEM style,' these have two hooks at the top and a large two-pronged fork that goes at the bottom of the spring. Do not get a MacPherson strut spring compressor, or any kind of an an external spring compressor, or even the internal spring compressors with two hooks on the top and bottom; these bottom out on the spring perches.
|The car is resting on jackstands and I've removed the shock tower cap and shock. I have the spring compressor in place and am ready to begin wrenching on the nut at the bottom of the compressor to slowly compress the spring.|
|The spring is now removed.|
|This is a better picture of how the compressor tool is seated in the spring. These are Grab a Trak 1" lowering 620's. Handle this loaded spring like a BOMB.|
|I set it on the ground, stand off to the side, and keep my hands off to the side when decompressing so I'm out of the way if it were to pop loose.|
|Now take the bushing shaft, slide the template over the studs, and bolt it back to its original location in the shock tower. You can see the small holes in the template right beneath the shaft which is where I'll start drilling for the drop.|